Green Building
What is Green?
Does Green Matter?
Benefits of Green?
Why Choose Us?
1. Knowledge & skills
2. We do what we say
3. Satisfaction quarantee
David K. Horvath, GMB, CAPS, CGP, LEED-AP
General Manager, Certified Builder
Office: (615) 791-5678
Cell:  (615) 319-0000
Email at:
. . . Since 1997 . . .

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  Activate 'sleep' features on computers and equipment that power down when not in use for a while.
  Turn off equipment during longer periods of non-use to cut energy costs and improve longevity.
  When cooking, keep the lids on pots. Better yet, use a microwave oven instead.
  Dress appropriately for the weather, and set your thermostat to the lowest comfortable setting.
  In summer, use fans when possible instead of AC, and ventilate at night when practical.
  Do only full loads when using the clothes washer or dishwasher.
  Switch to cold water washing of laundry in top loading, energy-inefficient washing machines.
  Lower the temperature on your water heater. It should be set at "warm" -no more than 130 degrees.   Set the refrigerator temperature at 34-37 degrees and freezer temperature at 0-5 degrees.
  Wash only full loads of laundry and dishes.
  Always use cold water for the garbage disposal.
A Home Energy Checklist ... Let Us Help! 
  Set thermostat back/forward when you can accept cooler/warmer         conditions.
  Set the temperature of water heater to the warm setting 120°F.
  Use energy-saving settings on refrigerators, dishwashers,                   washing machines, and clothes dryers.
  If you have a waterbed, make your bed each day. The covers will          insulate it, and save up to one-third of the energy it uses.
  Clean the dryer lint filter after every load.
  During hot months, keep window coverings closed on the south,         east, and west windows. In winter, let the sun in.
  Turn off everything not in use: lights, TVs, computers, etc.
  Check the furnace or air conditioner (AC) filter each month, and           clean or replace it as needed.
We are your partner for energy audits, modifications, and upgrades including professional installation for programmable thermostats. 
  Place the refrigerator away from heat sources such as the range, oven, heat registers and direct           sunlight.  Don't block air circulation around the refrigerator.
  Vacuum the refrigerator vents and coils twice a year. Dust makes them work harder to cool.
  Install tight-sealing exterior dryer vent hood that blocks air infiltration.
  If you have a room air conditioner, remove it for the winter or seal it up and insulate it.
  Replace aging, inefficient appliances. Refrigerators use the largest portion of appliance energy. An        inefficient refrigerator also adds a considerable amount of heat to your kitchen in the summer.
First make use of natural light whenever possible, and make sure lights are turned off when not in use. Then lower lighting levels where higher than needed by replacing bulbs with lower wattage bulbs.

  Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescents (CFLs) which can save 75% of the               electricity used by incandescents. The best targets are 60-100W bulbs used several hours a day.
  Use dimmers, timers, motion detectors, and daylight sensors on indoor and outdoor lighting.
Landscaping can be used to shade your home and air-conditioning equipment to lower the amount cooling loads and the amount of energy needed to cool your home.

  Plant trees on the south, east, and/or west sides of your home. Trees that lose their leaves in the           fall give protection from the summer sun and permit winter sunlight to reach and warm your home.
  Shade the AC unit from direct sun and direct winds with shrubs, trees, or a trellises but don't block         the air circulation
Two steps to reducing water heating costs: first, cut your hot water consumption and second, your standby losses from the water heater tank when not in use.

  Repair leaky faucets promptly.
  Install low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators.
  Drain a bucket of water out of your water heater at least once a year or more often if you have hard        water to flush out the sediment that can accumulate.
  Insulate your water heater with an approved water heater wrap.
  Insulate pipes in unheated spaces.
  Set an electric water heater on 1 inch of extruded polystyrene foam insulation. Many electric water        heaters have no insulation on the bottom.
  Add pipe insulation to exposed pipes going into your water heater.
  Install a vent damper on a gas water heater, if interior mounted.
  Replace an old water heater with a newer more efficient one.
  Install a passive or active solar water heating system.
Your primary goal should be to tighten up the house and adequately insulate it. Then consider furnace replacement. If you install the furnace and then make other energy improvements, the furnace will be oversized and might not operate properly or at peak efficiency.

  Clean intake grills and frequently.
  Clean or replace furnace, air-conditioner, and heat-pump filters once every month or two.
  Install a programmable thermostat that will automatically adjust the thermostat based on your               time-of-day instructions
  Have HVAC systems cleaned and tuned up in the fall and spring (see manufacturer instructions).
  Seal all the joints in the ductwork.
  Insulate pipes and ducts in unheated areas.
  Install a vent damper for gas fueled equipment if interior mounted.
  Install an electronic ignition for gas fueled equipment
  Install outside air for combustion if your house is extremely tight.
  Install new high efficiency equipment after the house has been tightened up and fully insulated.
Reducing energy loss through the floor system improves interior comfort and building performance. Also, conditioning the crawlspace or basement where HVAC and plumbing systems exist will improve their performance and reduce moisture damage to structural components in these areas.

  Seal the hole where the bath tub drain comes down and any other plumbing or electrical                       penetrations into the basement ceiling or floor with caulk or foam sealant.
  Seal the band joist and sill with caulk or foam sealant.
  Seal any holes in the foundation wall with caulk or foam sealant.
  Insulate the joist band.
  Insulate the floor system if completely closing the crawlspace is not practical.
  Place a vapor barrier on the dirt floor and close any vents (confirm proper drainage and safe radon          levels).
  Insulate the foundation walls.
  Insulate interior basement walls by building a 2x4 wall, insulating and covering with drywall or                paneling. Or use 2x2 furring strips with 1 1/2" rigid foam insulation between and cover with drywall.
  Exterior basement walls - install extruded polystyrene or high density fiberglass down from the              siding to one foot below grade (protect the exposed portion).
  If you have an exposed slab-on-grade, dig down a couple of feet and install extruded polystyrene           down from the veneer/siding.
  Insulate attic access door by attaching foam insulation or fiberglass batt to the back.
  Insulate the attic to R-40.
  Insulate all attic knee walls that form living spaces.
  Install radiant barrier which reflects the radiant heat energy from the sun to lower attic temperatures       up to 30 degrees and improves the performance of heating/cooling system.
  If your walls aren't insulated, have an insulation contractor apply blown-in insulation.
  Insulate the space between the floor and the garage to R-20 or greater.
  If you are re-siding, consider adding 3/4" to 1 1/2" of rigid foam insulation and wrap the home with          an air barrier (vapor permeable) material. Make sure the house walls are insulated before re-siding.
  Check to make sure damper is closing tightly.
  Install a top sealing damper.
  Install tight fitting glass doors and/or make a decorative insulated cover for it.
  Provide outside air for combustion.
  Replace broken glass and loose putty on window glazing.
  Add weather stripping to windows and doors as needed.
  Adjust door thresholds or replace with adjustable thresholds as needed to seal properly.
  Caulk around storm windows where the metal meets the window frame if you have combination             storms. If you have wooden storms that must be exchanged for screens in the summer, use rope          caulk to seal around the storm.
  Install storm windows on all single-glazed windows which can reduce heat lost by single-paned             windows by 25–50 percent during the winter.
  Install a storm door where you have none.
  Replace your old entry door with an insulated door.
  Upgrade leaky and inefficient windows with energy-efficient models.
  Weather strip attic access door.
  Seal plumbing cut-throughs for supply and drain pipe penetrations, and vents.
  Caulk around all electrical, telephone, and cable wire penetrations at top/bottom of interior walls.
  Seal wires into ceiling fixtures.
  Seal around all gas lines, dryer vents, and bath fan vents.
  Seal around all HVAC supply vents/registers at floor and ceiling locations.
  Seal around all medicine cabinet, bath tubs, and kitchen cabinets and other wall mounted fixtures.
  Caulk around window and door woodwork, sealing where the frame meets the wall and all other             joints in the window woodwork.
  Seal around the chimney using a high temperature sealant and metal flashing where necessary.
  Seal around recessed lights in insulated ceilings.
Caulk along baseboard (including interior walls) with a clear sealant.
  Install foam gaskets on all outlets and switches, even on interior walls.
  Hire an energy auditor with a blower door to locate the worst cracks.
  Schedule an energy audit for more expert advice on your home as a whole.
Air leakage usually amounts to 30-40% of your heating bill.
Excellence is the unlimited ability to improve the quality of what you have to offer.